For decades, vitamin A and its derivatives have been used extensively to reverse the signs of premature ageing skin. In term of their potency as “anti-ageing ingredients“, there are basically 3 forms of vitamin A and its derivatives:
1. Tretinoin (synonym: Retinoic acid)
The first and by far is the most active form of vitamin A, Tretinoin is an acid form of vitamin A. Topical use of Tretinoin has been clinically tested and proven to help:
- reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines
- stimulating the collagen production
- improving skin texture (smoothness, age spots/pigmentation, acne)
Background:
For decades, Tretinoin (synonym: Retinoic acid) has been used by doctors/dermatologists to treat acne skin conditions. However some patients reported that the treated skin appears to be smoother and wrinkles, fine lines and age spots appear to be less noticeable. Therefore for many years, it has also been prescribed to reduce the signs of premature ageing skin.
Efficacy:
- Analysis of pre and post treated skin in a double blind study at the University of Pennsylvania's School of Medicine, Philadelphia confirmed the efficacy of Tretinoin in reversing the signs of premature ageing skin.
- Some other universities have conducted some sort of studies and also confirmed the efficacy of Tretinoin in reversing the signs of premature ageing skin due to sun exposure.
Pros:
- Has been tested clinically and used extensively to reverse the signs of premature ageing skin due to sun exposure
- Has been used for decades in treating acne and proven to be effective
- Only one application (at night time) is needed within 24 hours
Cons:
- Can be very irritating. Many people experience redness, scaling, itching and burning sensation when using a product containing Tretinoin, therefore Tretinoin is not suitable for sensitive and dry skin.
- A product containing Tretinoin increases the risk of extreme sunburn and general skin sensitivity, therefore post-treated skin should not be exposed to ultraviolet light (sun, sun lamps, tanning beds), cold winds and hair-removal products (wax, cream, laser etc.) .
- Due to associated side effects, in many countries, a product containing Tretinoin is only available through prescription.
2. Retinol
Retinol is a potent form of fat-soluble vitamin A. Although it is less “active” compared to Tretinoin, a study at the University of Michigan in Ann Arbor confirmed that Retinol can reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Retinol possesses less side-effects than Tretinoin, however, those with sensitive and dry skin should be careful when using a product containing Retinol.
Products containing Retinol are available without prescription, but due to instability of Retinol in skincare formulas and possible side effects, many skincare manufacturers prefer to use Retinol Palmitate, a vitamin A ester, instead of Retinol.
3. Retinol Palmitate (synonym Retinyl Palmitate)
Retinol Palmitate is a vitamin A ester, arguably the most stable form of vitamin A used in skincare formulas. It is no surprise that Retinol Palmitate (synonym Retinyl Palmitate) is listed as one of the ingredients in many anti-ageing creams, lotions and potions including those from premium, organic-certified brands. Unlike Tretinoin and Retinol, Retinol Palmitate is suitable for all skin types (including those with sensitive and dry skin). In foods industry, it is often added to milk and other dairy products. Retinol Palmitate (synonym Retinyl Palmitate) is also commonly used as a vitamin supplement for treatment of vitamin A deficiency.
Worth knowing:
It is important to know that vitamin A plays important role in:
- regulating our body immune system which helps prevent or fight off infections
- maintaining healthy vision, bone growth, reproduction, cell division, and cell differentiation
Foods that containing vitamin A include liver (chicken or beef), milk, cheese, egg, carrot, kale, cantaloupe, spinach, mango, etc. The recommended daily intake for adults (RDA) is between 2,310 IU for women (slightly higher for pregnant women) and 3,000 IU for men. However extreme dose of vitamin A on daily basis is not recommended, in fact The California Environmental Protection Agency (CAL/EPA) has identified vitamin A and its derivatives as developmental toxins when administered at doses greater than 10,000 International Units (IU)*.
*Source: National Toxicology Program - Department of Health and Human Services, USA.
Skincare products containing vitamin A and its derivatives have been subjected to negative publicity associated with a relation between excessive daily intake of vitamin A (greater than 10,000 IU) during pregnancy and the increasing risk of birth defects. Although I have not known any case to prove that daily use of skincare products containing vitamin A and its derivatives contributed to any birth defects, as a precautious action and for peace in mind, any pregnant or maybe pregnant women or who are seeking to be pregnant, should inform their GP (doctor) if they use any skincare product containing vitamin A and its derivative, so their GP (doctor) can take this into consideration when recommending prenatal supplements that often contain higher doses of vitamin A than regular daily supplements.
I have been formulating skincare products (initially for my own use, family and friends) for more than two decades. Since at the very beginning, it has been my top priority to choose only safe, effective, high quality ingredients for my product range. For this reason, I decided to use Retinol Palmitate (synonym Retinyl Palmitate), the most stable, gentle and safe form of vitamin A, as one of ingredients.
Recommended products:
BioCollagen Ultra Serum
BioCollagen Ageless (Rich) Cream
Antioxidant Youthful Essence
Coming soon: Topicals vitamins - Vitamin C and its derivatives
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